Mchenry Hohnen Rocky Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

Whole berries dropped by gravity into concrete fermenters with a partial wild ferment at low temperature, seven to fifteen days on skins, then fourteen months in one- and two-year-old French oak barriques. Lifted redcurrant, cassis, violet and forest floor lead into bay leaf, licorice, black olive and dark chocolate, with fresh acidity and fine, grainy tannins on a gently savoury finish. Proper cabernet flavour without a heavy, demanding wine — best over the next five or so years.

Rocky Road is a real road. Murray McHenry bought a farm on it in 1998 and planted chardonnay, zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon. He already ran a chain of Perth wine shops and had planted his first vines in 1984, selling the grapes to Cape Mentelle. Cape Mentelle belonged to David Hohnen, his brother-in-law, and the two founded McHenry Hohnen together in 2004.

The farm's single-vineyard cabernet carried the Rocky Road name until 2013, when it became Hazel's Vineyard. Rocky Road is now the second label, the range where the winemakers keep things bright and try new varieties. Hazel's sits at the southern end of the region near Witchcliffe, on ironstone gravel loam over clay. It is farmed by biodynamic methods, with the Southern Ocean close enough to cool it.

It is 100 percent cabernet under screwcap and suitable for vegans. Serve it a touch cool with lamb chops.