Valdibella Zi Bi Bo' Zibibbo 2023

Zibibbo (Moscato d'Alessandria) grown organically around Camporeale in western Sicily, hand-destemmed without crushing, rested in press for twelve hours at 8°C, then fermented spontaneously in steel at a controlled 15–16°C and aged four to six months on lees before bottling. Straw yellow with greenish reflections, it carries the grape's signature musk lift — orange blossom, citrus and Mediterranean herbs — but finishes dry and savoury rather than sweet, with refreshing acidity.

Zibibbo came to Sicily from Alexandria with the Phoenicians, and it has been on the island long enough to count as native. Valdibella's vines sit around 200 metres above sea level, spur-cordon trained and cropped at a modest 60 quintals a hectare. The grapes are picked by hand into small crates.

The ferment starts on a culture the co-operative prepares from its own must 36 hours ahead, and the bottle carries no added sulphites. Valdibella is part of Addiopizzo, the Sicilian anti-mafia movement, and farms with crop rotation and legumes to regenerate the soil. It also runs a school of agroecology on the farm.

Serve it at 12 degrees. The producer describes the palate as harmonious, saline and persistent. The UK importer calls it fresh and ultra moreish, with restraint behind all that perfume.