Chalmers Nero d'Avola

Bright and juicy rather than big and heavy, with lifted violets, berry compote, cherry and a cranberry-like crunch. Underneath the fruit is the savoury side of Nero d'Avola — gravel, leather, a bit of earth — and the acidity has real drive. Wild-fermented whole-berry in stainless steel, so there's no oak in the way. Made to drink young and cold-ish, at cellar temperature, with something off the barbecue.

The vines sit in the top block of the Chalmers vineyard at Heathcote, between 210 and 220 metres up. It is the rockier ground on the property, a jumble of basalt, dolerite, limestone, quartz, sandstone and shale.

Picking is by hand. The berries go into tank whole after destemming, and the wine is pressed off skins once the ferment runs dry. Malolactic happens on its own, and the wine then rests on fine lees for six to ten months. Nothing is added to adjust acid, and it goes to bottle unfined and unfiltered.

Serve it around 14 degrees. It drinks well now and will hold for one to five years, picking up earthy campfire notes as it goes. Barbecued lamb skewers, charred flatbread with labneh and za'atar, or a plate of meatball pasta all suit it.