Galway Pipe Rare Tawny 25 Year (Limited Release) 25 Year

Limited-release Australian tawny with an average of 25 years' barrel ageing. Concentrated, layered, complex — toffee, walnut, dried fig, rancio. Tawnies are blended across vintages so 'age' refers to the average across the blend. Pours after dinner with hard cheese, dark chocolate, or on its own.

The base is Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Palomino, fermented and then left in oak. Galway Pipe runs a program in its barrel rooms that holds back the best old components and lets them keep ageing. Some of the parcels in this blend are well past 25 years, which is where the extra depth comes from.

Only 1,000 cases are released each year. The house pitches it as a clear step up from the standard range in structure and depth. The nose adds fruit cake and grilled nut to the dried fruit, and the oak shows as vanilla and caramelised toffee. Ray Jordan gave it 97 points and found roasted chestnut and spice in it. Stuart Knox scored it 96.

It is bottled at 19 percent alcohol, so pour it small and take your time.