Hewitson 'Ungrafted' Grenache 2022

Exceptionally rare in global terms — these vines pre-date the phylloxera outbreak that killed off most of the world's vineyards. Concentrated, savoury, structured.

The vines stand on their own roots beside the Para River, planted more than a century ago and never grafted. They are dry-grown, so the roots go deep for water. That is the whole point of the label. Most of the world's vineyards were replanted on grafted rootstock after phylloxera. These were not.

Hewitson picks by hand and ferments 85 percent whole bunches in open vats for three weeks. The wine then rests nine months on lees in old French barrels, which add air rather than flavour. The result reads more like Pinot than most Barossa Grenache. James Halliday found pure red fruits, citrus blossom, blood orange and a charcuterie edge.

Reviewers say it opens up with a few hours in a decanter. Jeni Port's drinking window runs to 2037. Serve it slightly cool with roast pork or duck.