Mesta Verdejo 2023

Verdejo from high-altitude vineyards in central Castile, where sunny days and cool nights keep the fruit intense and fresh. The vineyards are organically farmed as part of an integrated ecosystem studded with centenary oaks — low rainfall means low disease pressure, so no fungicides, and only organic manure has ever fed the soil. Fresh cut grass, fennel and white pepper lead into a dry, refreshing palate with excellent balance and a subtly mineral, persistent finish.

The vines are 21 to 31 years old and stand in loamy clay, and the sheep still cross the estate on their annual migration. The Mesta itself was the medieval shepherds' association that controlled those droving routes across Castile, which is where the label gets its name.

Picking starts early in the morning. The fruit is destemmed and given a short cold soak before a gentle pneumatic press. The juice ferments in stainless steel at around 16 degrees, and the winery stops malolactic conversion with chilling and a small dose of sulfur. That keeps the acid line sharp. The wine then sits four to six months in tank before bottling and never goes near oak.

Vine Street Imports, the US agent, finds lime zest and green melon in the glass. Drink it well chilled as an aperitivo, or with pasta, a salad, chicken or fish.