Thymiopoulos Kayafas Xinomavro

Kayafas is one of the single-vineyard Xinomavros Apostolos Thymiopoulos makes in Naoussa, off one parcel of vines planted 44 years ago on limestone near Trilofos village. It is the lowest-lying of his single vineyards and gets the longest maceration — 40 days — which builds high but ripe tannin behind sour cherry, redcurrant, rose and tea. Twelve months in second-use 500-litre French oak adds nutmeg and a little smoke without taking over, and the acidity stays crisp.

Naoussa is warm country, but Kayafas gets tempered by Mediterranean winds and by cool air sliding down off Mount Vermio. The vines stand on limestone at 180 metres. Thymiopoulos farms every vineyard organically with biodynamic practices. Wild flora grows between the rows to feed the soil and the fauna that live in it.

In the winery, 80 percent of the bunches are destemmed and the rest go in whole. Fermentation starts on its own yeasts. Apostolos Thymiopoulos wants his wines pure and not overwhelmed by the vessel, which is why the barrels are second-use and large. Balance is the word he uses most, and every vineyard and vintage gets treated on its own terms.

It is a PDO Naoussa wine at 13.5 percent. Xinomavro rewards air, so decant it an hour ahead and pair it with lamb, mushrooms or a tomato-rich braise.