Fiorano Giulia Erminia Pecorino 2022

100% Pecorino from the 25-year-old Gino vineyard at around 300 metres in Cossignano, farmed organically on clay, limestone and sandy soils. Hand-picked in mid-September, destemmed and gently pressed, then fermented with indigenous yeasts in 500-litre French oak tonneaux without temperature control, resting five to six months on lees in wood and a further year in bottle. Gold-flecked straw in the glass, with chamomile, wildflowers and jasmine over white peach and a faint buttery edge — rich and broad on the palate yet fresh and mineral, with the concentration to age seven or eight years.

The vineyards sit on the eastern flank of the Apennines, about fifteen kilometres from the Adriatic, ringed by the family's own olive groves. Fiorano picks this parcel late and selects by hand, which is where the ripeness and the broom blossom come from.

Paola Massi and Paolo Beretta left Milan for this farm. She was in pharmacology research, he was in dentistry. Her parents, Antonio Massi and Adriana Stracci, were already growing grapes here and selling the wine loose to friends and relatives. The couple turned that into a certified organic estate with a farmhouse for guests.

This is a serious white for the table, and the UK importer says it has converted more than one white Burgundy drinker. Serve it at 12 to 13 degrees, not fridge cold. Grilled fish, roast chicken or a medium-aged pecorino cheese all suit it.