Podere le Ripi Lupi e Sirene Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2018

A 100% Sangiovese Riserva from a two-hectare site on Podere Le Ripi's eastern slope near Castelnuovo dell'Abate, farmed under Demeter-certified biodynamic and organic practice. Fermented and macerated in open oak vats for 20-25 days with indigenous yeast, then aged around three years in large oak barrels before further time in concrete. The 2018 shows black cherry, dried orange peel, wild herbs, licorice and earth, with fine, present tannins carried by fresh acidity — critics across Vinous, Jeb Dunnuck, Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator all reviewed this vintage and called it built for long, slow ageing.

The vineyard sits at 250 metres on brown marl, lightly alkaline, with a granite skeleton running through it. The estate describes the eastern slope's soils as clay and silt laid down by an ancient ocean, high in limestone and at times salty. This side of Montalcino gets the sun early. Breezes come up off the Orcia river each day and Monte Amiata stands behind.

The vines are trained alberello style, as free-standing bushes, at 11,000 per hectare. That crowding keeps yields down to 40 quintals a hectare. Picking is by hand in the second week of September. Sebastian Nasello has made the wines here for years, and this Riserva was first bottled in 2003. The 2018 came to 12,000 bottles.

The 88 Bamboo review of the 2018 reckons another seven to ten years in the cellar will pay off. Open it early if you drink it young.