Stargazer Chardonnay

Cool-climate Tasmanian Chardonnay pressed whole to barrel and fermented on wild yeast in large French oak. Apple skin and ruby red grapefruit with a struck-match reduction over the top. The palate is taut and dry with a quinine-like grip rather than any butter.

The fruit comes from three places. Sam Connew's own Palisander vineyard at Tea Tree supplies part of it, and grower parcels come from the upper Derwent Valley and Richmond. Palisander sits on brown dermosol over Jurassic dolerite, a soil high in calcium that thickens skins and slows ripening.

Bunches are hand picked and pressed whole straight into barrel. Fermentation runs on wild yeast in 500 litre French oak, a fifth of it new. The wine goes through full malolactic conversion and is never stirred on its lees. It spends eight months in barrel, then a month and a half in tank before bottling.

Connew started Stargazer in 2013 after a decade as senior winemaker at Wirra Wirra. Serve this cool rather than cold and give it a big glass. Roast chicken or pan fried fish suits it.