Warramate Marsanne Roussane 2023

62% Marsanne, 38% Roussanne from vines planted in 2013 in Yarra Yering's Crécy Block. Whole-bunch pressed and wild fermented in seasoned oak, drawing on winemaker Sarah Crowe's time in Saint-Péray in France's northern Rhône. The Marsanne brings lemon verbena brightness and drive; the Roussanne adds beeswax generosity and a savoury edge — a textural, layered white with real presence.

The fruit is grown at Yarra Yering in Gruyere, at the foot of the Warramate Hills. The estate was planted in 1969, its 29 hectares are dry grown, and the house is known for structure. Sarah Crowe calls 2023 an inspiring vintage. Her note on the season says the early-picked varieties came in fragrant, supple and graceful, and that is the shape of this white.

Warramate itself dates from 1970, a small neighbouring vineyard with vines now past 50 years old. The partnership behind Yarra Yering bought it in 2011 and kept the name as a separate label. Crowe took over the winemaking in late 2013. She has since been named Winemaker of the Year by both Halliday and Gourmet Traveller.

Serve it cool rather than cold, so the waxy texture can show. Roast chicken or a pork belly suits it.