Francois Lumpp Givry Rouge 1Er Cru Crausot 2023

Pinot Noir from just under a hectare of the Crausot premier cru at the southern tip of the Givry appellation, where highly calcareous soils give wines of finesse and precision. Fully destemmed, fermented in tank, then matured a year in French oak (around 70% new) and rested several months in tank before bottling. The 2023 shows bright red cherry, wild strawberry, violet and subtle spice over fine-grained tannins, fresh acidity and a focused, mineral finish — elegant rather than full-bodied, and built to cellar.

Crausot only became a premier cru in the 1990s, young by Burgundy standards. Lumpp's 0.93 hectares split into two parcels. One faces south on stony limestone, the other east on a sandier limestone closer to their Chardonnay ground. Neither carries the iron oxide veins of the plots north of the village, which is why the wine leans mineral rather than fleshy.

François and Isabelle Lumpp started the domaine in 1991 with no inherited vines. It now covers 9.5 hectares and their daughter Anne-Cécile runs it. Yields are kept low, everything is picked by hand and sorted hard, and early-season work is done organically to keep tractors off the soil.

The importer calls Crausot the most elegant of the Lumpp reds. Allen Meadows scored the 2023 at 90 to 92 points and reckons it will repay a good stretch in the cellar. Roast duck suits it now.