Jansz Sparkling Rose

Pinot noir leads this Tasmanian sparkling rosé — 77% with 23% chardonnay — handpicked at Pipers River and the Tamar Valley and gently whole-bunch pressed. Bottle fermentation and a minimum of eighteen months on tirage build fresh brioche over strawberries, rose petals and a lift of Turkish delight, the pale salmon colour carrying a fine persistent bead into a rich, creamy palate that still finishes dry and vibrant.

The vines at Pipers River grow in rich, free-draining basalt soil. That soil, and a climate close to northeast France, convinced the Champagne house Louis Roederer to partner with Heemskerk. Together they planted chardonnay and pinot noir here in 1986.

The Hill-Smith family bought the property in 1998 and have run it since. They call their approach Méthode Tasmanoise: the traditional method, worked with minimal intervention. For the rosé the base wines ferment cool and go through full malolactic conversion, which is where the creamy texture comes from. The dosage is 7.4 grams per litre, so it lands dry but not severe. It sits at 12 percent alcohol.

This is a drink-now bottle rather than one to cellar. Jansz suggests smoked salmon blini with crème fraîche, or a poached quince tart.