Pol Roger Brut Non Vint

Pol Roger's non-vintage Brut Réserve blends equal parts Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier drawn from around 30 crus across the Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne and Côte des Blancs, with roughly a quarter reserve wine folded in for consistency between releases. It ferments and matures entirely in stainless steel with no oak, then spends about four years ageing in Pol Roger's chalk cellars beneath Épernay before disgorging and a further rest. Expect a golden straw colour, fine persistent bubbles, and a nose of pear and honeysuckle building into vanilla, brioche and quince on the palate, with a long finish carrying candied orange peel and spice.

The base wines ferment cool, at 18 degrees, in temperature-controlled stainless steel, and every one goes through malolactic. Once the four years in the cellar are done, each bottle is riddled by hand. After disgorging and dosage it rests at least three months more before it leaves Épernay. On the palate the house also lists beeswax and acacia honey behind the cooked fruit.

Pol Roger sold his first wine in January 1849 at eighteen. His father, a notary, had fallen ill and could no longer work. He moved the business from Aÿ to Épernay in 1851. By 1855 he was favouring the brut style because he knew the English wanted it dry. Six generations later the family still runs the house. Churchill called it the most drinkable address in the world.

The house serves it as an aperitif or straight through a meal.