Ansgar Clusserath Vom Schiefer Riesling Trocken 2023

Vom Schiefer means 'from slate', and this dry Riesling is the door into Ansgar Clüsserath's steep-site Mosel wines. Fruit comes off weathered, shale-based soils around Trittenheim — the Trittenheimer Altärchen on the left bank and the loamy Neumagener Rosengärtchen to the north — hand-picked and spontaneously fermented on wild yeasts in the estate's decades-old oak Füder, then left on its lees with nothing more than a single filtration before bottling. The result is sleek and light on its feet: green apple, peach and grapefruit over bright, zesty acidity and delicate slate minerality, at just 11% alcohol.

A third site rounds out the blend. Mülheimer Sonnenlay sits in a side valley off the Mosel and is known for filigree citrus and light mineral notes. The three parcels lie between 180 and 200 metres on slate and weathered slate, and the vines average about 25 years old.

Eva Clüsserath took over the family cellar in 2001 after studying at Geisenheim. The whole estate is about 5 hectares of steep terraces around Trittenheim. Grapes get up to 48 hours of cold maceration and go to press without a pump. The ferment runs for months in 1,000 litre Fuder casks around 50 years old. The wine then rests on its fine lees into late summer.

Her husband is Philipp Wittmann, the biodynamic grower from Westhofen. His limestone wines are broad and structural. Hers run taut and linear, built on slate and acidity.