Domaine Santa Duc Chateauneuf-du-pape le Pied de Baud 2021

Grenache-led single-vineyard Châteauneuf-du-Pape (80% Grenache with Cinsault and Mourvèdre) from Le Pied de Baud, one hectare in the appellation's northern sector where old vines root deep into river gravel and clay laid down by the prehistoric Rhône. Eighteen months in large foudres and terracotta jars keeps the oak out of the way. Raspberry and cherry on the nose, supple and velvety on a medium- to full-bodied palate — fleshier and more powerful than Santa Duc's other Châteauneufs. Wine Advocate rated the 2021 at 93-95 points with a window out to 2040.

The plot sits on the edge of the Brusquières plateau, ringed by woodland, with an old well and a century-old oak. The soil is sandy clay, heavy on the clay, with round terrace stones over limestone. The three grapes grow mixed together in the same rows, and the vines average 90 years old. Farming is Ecocert organic and Demeter biodynamic.

Picking is by hand into small crates, with a sort in the vineyard and a second on the table. The fruit drops into stainless steel by gravity and ferments for 20 to 30 days. The foudres are Stockinger, 36 hectolitres each, alongside 8 hectolitre clay amphorae. Nothing is fined or filtered. Benjamin Gras took over from his father Yves in 2019, the sixth generation since 1874.

Drink it from now to around 2032. Vinous found blood orange and garrigue in the 2021.