Yarra Yering Light DRY Red 2024

A 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Shiraz blend that plays on the light, fragrant 'Burgundy-style' reds Australian winemakers made from Shiraz decades ago. The Pinot Noir — from vines planted in 1981, fermented as whole berries — brings perfume and bright red fruit; the Shiraz, from the Waterloo block planted in 1995 and fermented as 100% whole bunches, adds spice, structure and a little savoury grip. The two components mature separately for nine months in used French oak barriques before blending. Exotically floral with blue violet and summer pudding aromas, it's light-bodied, silky and built for drinking young rather than cellaring.

The estate sits at Gruyere, at the foot of the Warramate Hills, where Dr Carrodus planted in 1969. The vines are dry-grown, which the house credits for its structure and long life. The 2024 season gave warm days and cool nights, so the Yarra's hallmark acidity carried through.

The style is a nod to the Hunter River Burgundies of the 1950s and 60s. Those were never Burgundian at all, just local Shiraz made light and fragrant for drinking young. Here the Pinot Noir is Pommard clone, plunged by hand in 600 kilogram fermenters. The Shiraz sat untouched on its stalks for ten days before destemming. That stalk work leaves the faint smoky grip at the end.

Sarah Crowe has run the winery since late 2013 and was Halliday Winemaker of the Year in 2017. Drink it now, or over the next three to five years.