Louis Bouillot Grand Reserve Cremant de Bourgogne

Crémant de Bourgogne from Nuits-Saint-Georges specialist Louis Bouillot, blending Burgundy's four varieties — Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Aligoté and Gamay — and made méthode champenoise with at least 12 months on lees. Pale yellow with green glints, the red-berry side of Pinot and Gamay (redcurrant, blackberry, cherry) meets white flowers — elderflower, lime blossom, honeysuckle — before a fresh, direct palate that balances roundness against citrus liveliness.

Perle de Vigne is what the house calls its most universal cuvée. It sets the style for the twenty or so other crémants Bouillot makes. Only a small share of reserve wine goes into the blend, so the fruit stays young and direct rather than nutty.

Louis Bouillot has made nothing but sparkling wine since 1877, which makes it one of Burgundy's oldest crémant specialists. The cellars sit in Nuits-Saint-Georges. The fruit comes from about 140 hectares spread the length of Burgundy, from the Châtillonnais down to the Couchois. Most of that is Pinot Noir.

The half bottle is the right size for two glasses before dinner. The house suggests pretzels, pâté, jambon persillé and cocktail sausages, which is a fair description of a good Burgundian apéro.