La Vielle Ferme Sparkling Rose

Sparkling rosé built on Grenache and Cinsault vinified by direct pressing, joined by Pinot Noir, from vines on limestone soils. The base wine rests in stainless steel tanks before the prise de mousse puts the fizz in the bottle. Fresh red fruit leads — raspberry and wild strawberry — over pomelo citrus and white flowers, with a delicate peach core and crisp, fine bubbles. Best served well chilled, between 5 and 7 degrees.

The blend is 40 percent Grenache, 40 percent Cinsault and 20 percent Pinot Noir, and the bottle sits at a modest 12 percent. Steel is the whole point of the handling. Perrin uses the neutral tank so nothing masks the fruit or the freshness the limestone gives the base wine.

La Vieille Ferme has been the Perrin family's value label from the south of France for more than 50 years. The name means the old farm, and the rooster on the label has earned it the nickname of the Chicken Wine. The same family makes serious Rhône wine, which is why a bottle this cheerful is made this carefully.

Reverse Wine Snob picks up strawberry, raspberry and a little fresh baked bread, with a crisp, dry finish. Perrin pours it with sweet or savoury nibbles before dinner, with smoked fish, or beside a fruit dessert.