Les Athletes du Vin Saumur Champigny 2022

100% Cabernet Franc off clay-and-limestone soils in Saumur-Champigny, macerated three weeks and then fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel for six months — no oak, no fining, just a light filtration. Vibrant and medium-bodied, it runs on ripe red fruits with a supple, round mouthfeel, soft approachable tannins and a chalky finish that gives away its Saumur origins. Sustainably farmed and made to drink over the next few years.

Vini Be Good is a cooperative of 35 Loire growers, all organic or in conversion. They have shared a warehouse and a sales book since 1999, and Les Athlètes du Vin is their house label. Each wine is made by one member from their own fruit or grapes bought off friends and neighbours. That is how a négociant bottle ends up tasting like someone's own vineyard.

This Saumur-Champigny carries HVE certification, France's environmental farming standard, and sits at a modest 13 percent. The importer calls it an over-performer, and we agree.

Give it a short spell in the fridge and pour it at 12 to 15 degrees. It works as an aperitif with charcuterie, then keeps going through roast chicken, a pizza, or a soft washed-rind cheese. Drink it now or over the next three or four years.